Here's where you peruse WACer trip reports and post your own for everyone to see. Remember: Never let the truth interfere with a good story!
|Mailed to WacList||07/27/2006|
Todd and I had done a trip to this area a few years ago to do Logan. I said sure as long as we do stormking while we're in there. It's on the hundred highest list and I needed it. We did logan and got skunked by the weather on Stormking. It became unfinished business. So I say lets go back to Stormking. Todd says as long as we do Goode too. I've done Goode, but partners with Todd's pain tolerence are hard to find. So I say great. |
The trip is a bit of a blur due to the fatigue of it and time. This may seem a bit stream of conciousnes
Day One. Drive to Cascade Pass. Hike over the pass and down the washed out road to the two mile camp in the Park Crk valley. 15 miles, 2500' gainl, 3000' loss. The most exciting moment was seeing Yogi and BooBoo on the trail. We came around a bend and there they were strolling along in the same direction as us. A lot of yelling ensued. They exited to the bushes. Barely. We walk by with a lot of loud conspicous conversation.
Day two. Hike to the four mile mark and cut into the woods. Bushwack 500' till we find the climbers trail. Climb to 7600' and traverse to the stormking-goode col.
Drop the packs and do a long slow slog over to Stormking. The first pitch did it's best to scare us. It was a steep gully with stacked handholds. Which one is solid? Do you feel lucky today? The rest of it was uneventful. Ding we tag it. Number 89 for me. Rap down. Walk back to col. Rappel col to the goode glacier. Getting tired. Start dropping on glacier. Run into a cliff. Rap again. I needed a shorter cordelette anyway. traverse around the mountain to 5700' at the start of the approach to the NE buttress. 5500' gain, 3000' loss, miles, a bunch. In the middle of the night a small animal was dragging one of Todd's boots away. It had gotten about 8 feet. He awakes and rescues it. I sleep.
Day three. Notice the altimeter has gone up 125'. Rope up and cross the glacier to the NE buttress which rises 2800' from the glacier to the summit. Two loose tough pitches puts us on the ridge. We unrope and scramble the next 1000 feet. It starts to spit on us. We keep climbing. Scramble more. Near top we rope up. Spits more. Keep climbing. Big block comes off and partially chops the rope. A smaller rope is convienant. Keep climbing. Finally arrive at the summit. 9200'. Its one of the big ones. Great view. Only three hours of daylight left. Rap down. Do spooky traverse to gully. Will the rope be long enough for the rap into the gully now? Yes. Down the gully. Pick up the ski poles. Todd's dispite being stood up have the grips chewed. Down the steep climbers trail. Through the brush in the dark. Down to the camp. 14 hours. miles, who knows. 3500' gain, 5200' loss.
Day four. It was 17 miles out. Only a mantra of "Good food, good food, good food" got us out.
We only took a small rack. Nothing bigger than a #2 cam. I guess we could have taken a shorter rope.